Muchas Gracias ...

I just wanted to write to my many followers, clients -- past and present -- and many dedicated dog owners that read my blog and/or follow my business page on Facebook ... and those that do other things outside of anything business to make it very easy for me to love my job even more!

It is you dog owners that keep me going, that keep me wanting to help dog owners when they need it.  There are so many great dog owners out there, so many great dog clients I've had the joy of getting to know and work with.  I just wanted to send a huge thank you to all of you!

For an update on myself -- I'm still pregnant! Seems like forever, at least to me!  I'm 34 weeks and due with my twin girls (we have named Stella and Sadie) on March 24th  I'm definitely ready and at this point walking into the kitchen to get water is a chore.  The bathroom is a common place for me to be and sitting or lying down is the only thing that feels somewhat comfortable at this stage.  However, the babies are doing great and we are moving along nicely according to the doctors.  So, again, thank you for all you have done and I will post updates as much/often as possible.

Remember that I post lots on my Facebook business page and hope to keep this blog busy with dog stuff too!  You can sign up for updates sent directly to your inbox by putting your email address in the bar where it says "Get Emailed When I Post New Stuff" on the right column of the main blog page here: adventuresincaninetraining.blogspot.com

No more doggies jumping on the bed ...

I get this question a lot: Should I allow my dog on the bed (or other furniture)?  Usually this is based on the very old-school of thought that having dogs in your bed or on your furniture gives your dog a sense of "dominance" and being "higher up".  Easily put, that is hog wash.

Without getting too  much into the whole dominance theory, as re-visited by scientists today, I will just say that here are common myths about canine dominance in the pet home that are just that: myths.

• If you allow your dog to sleep with you he'll think he's ranked higher and may feel more dominant.
• If you allow your dog to walk through a door way before you then you are allowing your dog to be dominant, and be ahead.
• If you play tug and let him win, your dog may become dominant, or aggressive.
• If your dog growls or snaps at you  he's showing dominance.
• If your dog is a bully to other dogs or aggressive towards them it's because he thinks he's dominant.

While the above listed items are all completely false and all have other meanings and root from other things, we won't address those in this post.  I just want to address dogs on furniture or sleeping with you in the bed. 

The truth is that dogs can sleep wherever you wish, with some rules and training under their belt.   I feel that dogs can be allowed on any furniture where I sit or lie (minus kitchen chairs/stools and tables!) with the following reliable things in place:

• When I ask them to move and/or "get off" they do so without coercion or bribery. 
• They do not mind moving when I get into their space on the furniture.
• They never show any aggression or refuse to get off the furniture.
• In multiple dog homes all dogs should be able to safely share space without a tussle, snap, snarl or argument. (This may require more training depending on the dogs!)

The above should be trained before being requested by you.  If your dog cannot or does not respond to the above then you need to train him to respond to your requests and move out of space when you move into it.  You should train your dog to do this without force.  These are easy things to train, just practice and train them before asking your dog to do them, as with anything you ask of your dog.  If you need to work on this with a multiple dog home there may be a few extra steps and a bit more training involved, but it can be done! Remember it's not fair to ask your dog to something you've never actually trained him to do. 

Here is a video of my dogs showing some examples we discussed above.  (Direct link to video: http://youtu.be/JO1bea_gpwo)

 

Choosing to have pets on the furniture is a personal choice. If you simply do not want dogs on the furniture that is totally fine. However if you don't allow it because you were led to believe it was "bad" or would lead to "behavior problems" then fret no more! Just teach your dog the rules and boundaries of your bed and furniture! Happy sleeping!

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The Remarkable French Trainer.

Several of you have met Ines, my young and intelligent intern that has followed me around for the past year (or there about).  She met me technically via Facebook, and coincidentally lives just minutes from me in Arlington (Texas).  She came to a seminar I did on dog training back in November of 2011 and since then became more interested in going a "different" direction with dog training.

See, Ines used to be a huge follower/fan of a famous dog trainer shown on TV; a "trainer" whom I wholeheartedly disagree with and do not follow or suggest any of his methods of training.  I was very excited when she said to me, "well if there is a better way of training I'm open to listening and learning ..."  And since that day she never did do another leash jerk or put a metal collar on her dog for training. She actually purchased a treat bag, more appropriate dog collar/leash and started to learn clicker training too!  

Ines adopted a Husky/Shepherd mix of some kind from the shelter, "Loker", and he was a bit challenging for her with lots of energy and what seemed to her, stubbornness when it came to training.  He also was becoming more and more reactive to other dogs when out on the leash.  The methods she was using were not working to help her or Loker. The only issue was that she didn't have the right know-how or methods to employ with this dog and so they were kind of working against one another instead of for one another.

Almost immediately upon employing the methods she learned from me and other more positive and science-based trainers (those who use current science-based methods not outdated ones!) she saw her dog, Loker, make a dramatic change.  Their bond grew immensely and he actually found working and learning fun.  He also was quite good at it and was nothing close to stubborn! He has also come a loooong way with his leash reactivity and is very good on leash these days!

Since she started to crossover and use more positive methods Ines has bought numerous highly recommended and acclaimed books, attended seminars and even started her own blog titled, "The Crossover Trainer" which she posts some great tips, videos and other great stuff.  

January is National Train Your Dog Month, started by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and they are having a contest this year for people to enter and win.  It's based on positive training and Ines was so excited to be able to say she qualified Loker for that!  She has entered and made it to the finals!  I'm so proud of  her and all of her accomplishments over the past year.  She's going to end up as a great trainer for others to follow.  If you'd like to help her you may go and vote on her video with Loker she's entered into the contest.  You may do that by clicking here.

Another round of applause for Ines, her willingness to change and open her mind to great training methods and more  appropriate and accurate training!  And to top it off, she's French!  She could speak the language of love to your dog ... if you so desire!

'Tis the Season ...

Well it's that time of year . . . but well . . .  I must apologize because this list is way too late for anyone to gift any of these things but they are still great to look at and get for um .... New Year's gifts?!!  Why not add to a dog lover's list for help with a good start to the New Year?! 

 

This list is a repeat from last year's list but that's because I loved them so much I had to repeat them ... and also because I didn't have time to put a new one together this year! 

 

K9-Rosco Dog Walking Jacket, still one of my favorites, I am in love with this coat! Too many features to list here but a few include: built-in leash belt, extractable pick-up bag cargo pocket, Detachable Plastic Cargo Pocket Treat/Waste Insert, & 2 Hands Free Accessory Carabiners.  For more details, full list of features & where to buy click here.

DawggieGoPak®, don't want the whole jacket but would like easier walking? This is the perfect solution for urban professionals and on-the-go suburban parents to properly care for their dogs.  The product’s compact size allows it to attach to any leash and is large enough to accommodate all of your on-the-go needs.  DawggieGoPak’s multi-pocket design can carry: Keys (both house and car), Dog treats, Any MP3 player, Any mobile phone. For more details click here.

Dog Gone Smart Beds, not just your average dog bed.  These beds wick away the tiniest of particals leaving the bed virtually unable to be penetrated with any liquid or messes of any kind.  They come in many sizes, colors & styles.  For all the details, click here.

'Zack' Personalized Dog Collar, not your average personalized dog collar!  She's got tons of different designs to choose from.  The very uniqueness to the personalization on this collar is what makes it so special.  It's hand-sewn & made just for your dog!  This one is perfectly gorgeous velvety material.  For more of her designs, click here.

Soggy Doggy Doormat--need we say more?!  Who hates muddy paws? I thought so!  This mat absorbs more than just wet & mud, it also captures dirt & debris so that it stays off your floors.  Every pet home should have at least one of these!  For more details & purchasing info, click here.

Your Pet as a Plushie, cutest thing I've seen!  How would you like a plush dog that was commissioned from a photo of your own dog?  Your very own plush dog that is your dog!  I'm a kid at heart & can never pass up a plush anything!  I just think these are too cute to pass up.  Great gift idea at anytime of year.  Details here.

PetHub Tag, the most innovative tag to date!  These pet tags have a QR Code that is able to be scanned by any smartphone & the dog owner's information is displayed immediately on your phone.  No need to drive around, take a pet to be scanned, it all comes to you immediately, making getting the dog home a quick process!  For more details, click here.

Blanket ID Pet Tag, the most attractive ID tag out there!  Want a more attractive tag that has all your dog's info, easily accessible to anyone that finds your dog by logging into the BlaketID website and helping reunite you & your dog!  You have the ability to log on & change anything about your dog at anytime so that your dog's information & photos are always up to date. Get details here.

Etched Unique ID Tag, just plain cute.  I'm obviously a fan of an ID tag for your dog.  All dogs should have one on at all times.  And with some on the market as cute as these, why not?!  These are handmade & absolutely amazing.  I got one of these for each of my dogs this year.  She custom designed them to fit their personalities. They are great! They have other designs & styles as well.  Check them all out here.

The Amazing Treat Machine, a fun simple toy.  This inexpensive cardboard design is so simple yet so entertaining for your dogs!  For hours of enjoyment, fun & mental stimulation go get yours today.  You can even decorate it to be to your liking!  For a video & more details, click here. 

Cartoonize My Pet, cool gear to show the breed you so love!  This darling store has tons of gear you can buy with your specific breed.  It's got loads of breeds as well as loads of different colors & markings for each breed!  They also have other pets too!  Check out their store here. 

Dog Bone Charm Necklace by Heart on Your Wrist Jewelry is nothing short of the perfect gift for the dog lover in the family!  It is dainty & delicate but shows off your love for Fido all the same.  Check out several different styles & other designs of charms for the pet lover in the bunch!  Click here for more.

Luv & Emma's Dry Pet Towel, a must for those wet paws.  This towel is amazingly soft & does just what a towel should do -- absorb lots of liquid!  The towel holds up to 16 oz of liquid yet dries quickly.  It has a loophole on it so it can be hung on the door knob ready for use when Fido comes in from outside (now that's handy!)  It is made in the USA & is completely machine washable too.  Go get yours here.  

Tuffy's Sherman the Sheep, giant stuffed, durable dog toy.  While I don't believe any dog toy is completely safe from a dog's teeth these are the only stuffed toys I do recommend.  Most stuffed toys are obliterated in minutes & can be dangerous.  Tuffy makes some cute & durable toys.  Meet Sherman the sheep here. 

Molly Mutt Green Dog Bed, most amazing dog bed idea out there!  Like to be Green & environmentally conscience?  This bed is a great way to stay Green--get a DIY kit where you get a stuff sack, stuff old clothes or blankets inside, then cover it with one of their environmentally friendly duvet covers & you have a dog bed!  Choose from many amazing duvet covers & change as often as you like!  Check out more here. 

Padded Seatbelt Harness, a must for car safety!  This luxurious yet rugged harness is fully adjustable for chest & girth and sits low on the chest & extends only behind the front legs, thus avoiding pressure around the neck & stomach area during quick starts/stops. Designed for all sizes of dogs, you can get yours here. 

Under-counter dog hideaway/bed, a must for those design-conscience home owners!  This is the coolest thing on this list, and probably the most expensive!  However I couldn't leave it out!  How gorgeous is this kitchen island while still allowing for dogs to be comfortable?!  I just love this!  When I'm able to design my own house & have it built it will have many nifty dog-friendly items just like this (one day!) Get your contractor's numbers out & visit this site for more great pics.

"So, how long do I need to use food [when training]? ...

As a "sequel" to my previous post "But he'll always do it for food..." I wanted to continue with this topic.  The first blog post was meant to explain why some dogs will only do it for food, and seemingly make it appear that "food in training doesn't work".  However, it wasn't meant to say that I do not condone the use of food or think that food should be faded fast and dogs should "just do it".  (If you misread that post please go back and re-read it in it's entirety and view all the attached videos. However hopefully this little sequel will help too!)

I find that many dog owners, as the previous post stated, don't understand this topic at all.  They think that all dogs should be taught the desired behavior and then just do it, with no reward after they "know it".  I do not agree with this. Why? Well do you go to work and after you are proficient at your job you are expected to just show up and work as proficiently?  No checks any more, just do it because you're so good at it?  I'm sure you'd soon find a new job if that were the case! I love my job. I'm doing exactly what I wanted to do since I was a kid -- work with dogs!  However, even I still have to get paid and rewarded for what I do. I will even admit that not working for someone else can be unrewarding due to the fact that there are no bonuses, no rewards for doing a good job.  I only get to reward myself. I don't hear it from anyone else.  I do get rewarded with  my great clients and the successes of the clients and their dogs.  Those are rewards and with those rewards I continue to do what I do!  

What amazes me is how dogs are put in such a different category than humans but they have the same expectations we have of humans. How does this make sense?  Our dogs should learn something and "just do it" without any reward but they should perform as well as humans do when they know what to do at their jobs.  However, after time the dog's "paycheck" should cease, according to many humans, but the human will remain getting paid as long as he's performing his job.  It's really not fair, regardless of the fact that a human and a dog are very different species. It's the "you can't have your cake and eat it too" mantra. 

I will admit that my dogs rarely get food for performing simple tasks, like sit  or down or "go to the rug" [and stay].  They know those cues well as I use them often. But that does not mean they don't get some sort of payment or reward.  A reward does not always mean food or treats.  Rewards are defined by the dog. This is where I discussed the "Life Rewards" in the other blog post.  I also always, always, always tell my dogs when they do it right -- "Go to the rug, Noah. .... Goooood boy.  That's a good boy..."  I never leave out the verbal rewards, ever.  And my dogs are now 7 years and 10 years old. I also give life rewards often, always in fact if there is no food involved or new behaviors being taught.  Remember, your dog's life reward is defined by your dog, the environment and the context.  If your dog has to pee, he's got his little paws crossed dying to be let outside, then the life reward in that situation would be -- open the door and let him out!  So you could ask him to "sit" and then say, "Good boy..." now open the door and let him out.  There was his reward. Wa-la, you're done, you have given your dog a "Life Reward" which was defined by your dog in that moment.

More examples of Life Rewards:

• If you are playing a game with your dog and a toy is involved, ask your dog to perform a task then wait for the dog to do it and then give the toy as the reward.
• If putting the leash on your dog and going outside is extremely rewarding to your dog then ask him to perform a task then put the leash on as a the reward.
• If getting on the couch to be pet is a reward to your dog ... you get the idea!

The more you start to incorporate life rewards with your dog after he's reliably been taught the desired behavior, then the more your dog will perform tasks when asked, regardless of what may or may not be in your hand, i.e., if food is present!

So back to the original question -- When do I remove food from the training equation? When will my dog begin to work reliably for Life Rewards?  The answer is: once you have properly taught your dog what you want him to do.  And when I'm starting out with training I'll use food or a toy or whatever is the most rewarding to the particular dog being trained.

Your dog should know the behavior being trained and perform it on cue.  This is when you can start to incorporate Life Rewards and intermittently give food rewards.  A cue is -- A stimulus that elicits a behavior. Cues may be verbal, physical (i.e., a hand signal), or environmental (i.e., a curb may become a cue to sit if the dog is always cued to sit before crossing a road). Here is an excellent video on when to add the cue.

Also, you will need to start to see your dog performing things in all environments and be able to generalize the behavior you have asked for.  This is explained best in my first blog post under reason 4) Training Gone Wrong ... Re-read that and watch the video listed there.  Visit that blog post here.

After all of the above is done properly then you'll see your dog needing less and less food and working when asked, regardless of whether food is present or not.  However, please do keep in mind you need to always reward your dog in some way and always praise him for performing any desired behavior/task.  Always, always, always.

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Do I need a trainer or a behavior expert?

QUALIFIED DOG TRAINERS

A dog trainer can be anyone.  Sadly the dog training industry is not regulated and there are no governing bodies to qualify a person under a blanket title of "dog trainer".  There are no degrees or the like for a dog trainer.  Anyone can become a dog trainer.  Anyone.  And yes, there are many "schools" out there with their own type of "certification", heck I even attended one.  However, this still isn't a green light that one should immediately say, "Oh then he must be a qualified trainer..."  Sadly that may or may not hold true.  The best way to find a good trainer is by referral and observation.   

Always seek a trainer that uses modern and up-to-date training methods.  Outdated methods are still very, very widely used and those more "current" trainers out there find that dogs trained with these methods are suffering from long term problems due to lack of correct education on dog behavior and training.  Never choose a trainer that puts a "I can fix your dog in X amount of lessons" or a "guarantee" on their training. There is no such thing when it comes to dog training, and especially with behavior modification.Here is an excellent read on how to find a good trainer.

 
DOG TRAINER OR BEHAVIOR EXPERT?

Then a question often asked by many dog owners is: Do I need a dog trainer or behavior expert? How do I know?

If your dog is exhibiting any form of aggression or "reactivity" (it may look like aggression but be more "talk" than anything), fears, phobias, anxiety or extreme shy or timidness then you should seek the help of a behavior expert that knows canine behavior and body language very well.  Most box-store trainers cannot help dogs with the above listed problems and many trainers will also attempt to help but cannot get far as they don't have the proper education or experience to do so.  

OBEDIENCE TRAINING MAY NOT BE THE ANSWER

Dog training is great for all dogs, regardless of their issues.  However, just teaching a dog the basics of obedience and how to "obey" will not help behavior problems that may go beyond that.   Many dog owners get the advice of "join a class" in the hopes that this will "fix" their dog's issues.  If your dog doesn't know how to sit, or walk nicely on a leash (due to pulling) then yes, a class would be a good option. However if your dog barks incessantly at other dogs when on leash or likes to growl and snap at others or dislike people coming into your home (these are just a few of many examples) then a group class is not the answer to start your dog's behavior modification program.

WHAT IS  BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION?

B -Mod is the abbreviation professionals often use that stands for "Behavior Modification".  Some trainers use the term "Rehabilitation" or maybe even some other terms.  It's all about the same thing: working with a training and canine behavior consultant (or even an Animal Behaviorist) in order to change your dog's behavior for the better.  That's a simple way  to put it.  

What dog owners need to know is that b-mod isn't a quick fix, if done properly by a qualified and highly educated dog professional.  B-mod Programs, as I call them, are just that "programs". Which means it's not a 2-lesson deal.  A training professional doesn't just come to the home, put a leash on your dog and show you a few little tips and then tell you your dog is going to be "fixed" within X amount of time.  If a professional does do that then they are not a professional I'd recommend you work with.  

If a dog has some behavior issues and requires a B-Mod Program laid out by a qualified professional then you need to know what you have to prepare for.  Do not expect instant results. Do not expect your dog to just be taught obedience and that solves your dog's issues.  Expect a commitment.  Expect to have all household members to participate, fully.  Expect to change your dog's current environment. Expect to learn about dog body language and how to read and use it.  Expect to never put your dog in a situation that sets him up to fail again.  Expect to lay out rules for any person that comes into your home or in contact with your dog.  Expect to possibly have a full medical check that involves blood panel and a thyroid panel to rule out medical components to the behavior issues.  Expect homework and dedication.

If you have a dog with behavior issues there are many great professionals who have very successfully changed the dog's behavior with a great Behavior Modification Program, coupled with the dog owners' compliance and dedication.  However, the biggest problem is people who don't commit, who fail to follow all the trainers' instructions and/or who expect more than what is realistic.

Sadly the internet and television have made it appear that dog behavior problems can be fixed quick and easy with certain methods.  This is not true and any qualified, educated and well-versed canine professional knows this.  So, if your dog has the need for a behavior modification program then please seek the help of a qualified professional and be prepared to do some work.  Do not be discouraged, these programs work and they work well, but they are not quick fixes.  All you need is a great canine professional and readiness to really do what it takes to change your dog's behavior, regardless of what that may be.

Understand what a Behaviorist is, as well. Many dog trainers call themselves "behaviorists" when in fact they are not.  That doesn't mean they don't understand behavior, and they could very well be absolutely amazing but they are misrepresenting what a true "Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist" is.  Read more here to know how to find a behaviorist, should you want a "real" certified animal behaviorist.
Note: You do not have to hire a genuine "Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist" to accomplish goals with behavior problems.  I simply wanted to have people understand what a behaviorist actually is and isn't.  There are many, many qualified trainers and behavior consultants (like myself!) that are not certified but are quite versed in dog behavior, training and behavior modification.

Here are a couple of organizations that I recommend to use to find a qualified trainer/behavior consultant:
Pet Professional Guild
Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT)
Truly Dog Friendly
Karen Pryor Academy

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"But he'll always do it for food ..."

One huge question I often get is -- "How do I get him to do it without food, he'll always do it for food?!"   There are a few reasons why dogs will only work when food is around, there are also myths about why some trainers will not use food because they  believe that reliability won't come without the use of food. The truth is that there are people winning national titles for different sports and obedience, and they started with food or rewards of some kind.  In a competition you cannot use anything but your skills and the dog's ability to carry out what you have taught him, which proves that any dog can be trained reliably with food ... when done properly.  This means that they learn the behaviors and understand them, and will perform them regardless of the presence of food.

Please note: This isn't a black and white, "these are the only reasons dogs will only work when food is around" list.  There can be many other reasons why dogs will seemingly only work for food.  I've just listed some of the most prominent reasons, in my opinion. 

Let's discuss reasons why dogs will work for food but will not if food is not present.

1) Luring without properly fading the lure.

2) Bribing.

3) It's the only reward ever presented.

4) Training wasn't carried out properly.

1) OVER-LURING.  I see this often because luring when training works.  I use luring myself.  However, you have to know when to fade the lure and how to do it properly. It's simple, really, it just has to be done pretty quickly and the behavior you are wanting to achieve needs to be put on stimulus control.  In simple terms, "stimulus control" means that the dog knows the behavior and will reliably perform it on cue.  So if you ask your dog to lie down he'll do so, within a second or two, and won't do another behavior instead.  Some dogs will sit when asked to lie down or will lie down when asked to sit. This means the dog doesn't really know the cue and it is not under stimulus control.  This happens when the verbal and/or hand signal is added to soon or is "taught" by repeating the cue over and over and over until the dog does it.  It can also happen if the dog is punished (a leash jerk, pushed into place or maybe even spoken to sternly or harshly) for not performing the cue before the dog reliably understands what is being asked of him.

We often lure to get simple behaviors as they are performed quickly and the dog can "get it" a bit faster with luring.  A good example is taking a treat and putting it slightly in front of the dog's nose then slowly bringing it down in front of him, down to the floor, as soon as the rump and elbows hit the floor we praise and give the treat/lure to the dog.  This is one way to lure a dog into a "lie down"  position.  However, the problem is that many people don't then put the "down" on cue at the appropriate time and get it under stimulus control; then the dog needs to be lured down, usually by the person going all they way to the floor and touching the floor in order to lie down.  No one wants to have to always touch the floor to get their dog to lie down, at least I don't!

Here is an excellent couple of videos on how to fade a lure when training. First from the wonderful Emily Larlham.  Lots of great videos of hers found here.

And another, from great trainer Pamela Marxsen, more of her videos here.

(2) BRIBING. I know that people who bribe their dogs don't mean to do this but this can cause any dog to only do things for food.  After all, it's bribery and without the bribe the behavior will stop.   Probably the best example is when a dog won't come to you and someone runs to get the treat bag (or other object that the dog will respond to, dangling hot dog, whatever...) and dangles it while asking the dog to do something.  "Fido! I've got a treeeeeeattttt!!!  Want a treat?!!!"  All while shaking the bag, rustling it around.  The dog usually comes running.  I actually don't mind this if you are totally desperate and this could save your dog's life. Example: Your dog doesn't have a reliable recall and has darted onto your busy street and you need the dog to come in immediately for safety reasons.  If the only way your dog will come to you at this point (eh hem, after this train, train, train!) then by all means bribe the dog!! But after this get on some training, now!

However any other time my initial reaction would be to tell you that you need to train your dog to a higher level of reliability, and learn to do it properly.  If you have to bribe your dog to do something your dog simply has not learned the behavior reliably, plain and simple.  Any dog that is reliably trained doesn't need bribing.

(3) REQUESTING THINGS ONLY WHEN YOU DO HAVE FOOD.  This is somewhat along the lines of bribing, really.  But it could be that you aren't necessarily using bribery to get your dog to do something. It could simply be that you only ask your dog to, for example, sit when he's getting fed.  So your dog will reliably sit for his dinner but won't necessarily do it at any other time.  So you will begin to think that your dog will only sit because dinner is present.  The truth is that your dog hasn't been taught to do sit (or any other behavior perhaps) in other situations.  You haven't offered up "Life Rewards" so that your dog  begins to offer behaviors for other things aside from when food is present.

Life Rewards are a critical part of weaning a dog off of food.  Your dog should always be praised and rewarded.  However, a reward does  not always have to be food.  Using these types of "rewards" are great for impulse control as well.  For example, your dog loves to play ball.  Then he must sit in order for you to toss the ball for him.  He cannot jump up and grab the ball from your hand or plow you over in order to get the ball.  If you have a ball (or any toy for that matter) you should ask your dog to sit (given that your dog does know this cue) and wait for it.  As soon as his rump hits the ground--"Good  boy!" and toss that ball!  He'll love it!

So what are Life Rewards?  It is anything that your dog sees as rewarding.  This will depend on the dog but they can be things such as: going for a walk, opening the door to go out, playing, tug, attention/petting ...  These must be rewarding to your dog.  Just because you enjoy petting your dog does not mean your dog finds it so rewarding that he will perform several cues just to get a rub behind the ears.  However, some dogs will live for a rub behind the ears!  So, just find what is rewarding for your dog, and sometimes it depends on the exact moment.  If your dog really wants to go outside to chase a squirrel up a tree he would probably sit  upon request in order for you to reward him by letting him go outside.  If the squirrel wasn't there he may not be as motivated by going outside.  Get it?

Here is a great read on Life Rewards and training without food, click here.

(4) TRAINING GONE WRONG. And a big part of  a dog not working for you without a bribe or obvious "reason", eh hem, food  ... is that you simply haven't trained your dog reliably enough.  Just because you can lure your dog five times over the head with a treat and he sits doesn't mean that now he actually knows the "sit" cue. 

For dogs to understand and be reliable with a cue (any cue at all) you have to practice it many times in one location, then move to another, then another.  Be sure to put it on stimulus control and have it this way in many different locations and environments.

Dogs are often so poor at generalizing that you have to realize that just because he knows "sit" in the bathroom doesn't mean he'll do it in the living room!  And if he only does it in the bathroom but not the living room then definitely do not expect him to do it on the front porch with added and new distractions!  You must train in different non-distracting environments and then add new environments with a few distractions, gradually increasing the degree/amount of distractions.  And then move to different places outside and inside and all over town!  Always use a high value reward when changing the environment and adding distractions until the behavior is on stimulus control and is reliable in that environment.  

Here is a great video on raising criteria by Pamela Marxsen:

  

IN CONCLUSION there are many reasons why a dog will seemingly "only work for food" when the simplest reason is that the training has not been done properly, consistently and/or reliably.   Training a dog the right way doesn't just happen in the blink of an eye. Our canine partners are smart critters but they do need repetition, practice, praise and consistency in order to do what we want when we ask and be reliable with it.  There are no magic answers, tools or quick fixes.  You just have to train the right way and keep on truckin'!  And here is a great read on how to phase out food altogether during training, click here.

To read Part II of this post, "So, how long do I need to use food [when training]?" click here.

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